Traditionnelle manual-winding – Colourful elegance and a modern vibe: a contemporary take on classical design

Source:  Images and content by Vacheron Constantin

13 September 2023

• Vacheron Constantin is expanding its Traditionnelle collection with two models featuring a majestic green sunburst dial highlighted by a pink gold case.
• A 33 mm diamond-set model and a 38 mm model embrace all wrist types with an elegantly contemporary touch.
• Two manual-winding in-house calibres beating steadily behind the scenes ensure day-to-day reliability and accuracy.

These models retain the essential characteristics of the rich Genevan watchmaking heritage perpetuated by Vacheron Constantin, while reflecting the contemporary spirit through a colourful twist featuring a deep green sunburst dial striking a powerful contrast with the pink gold case.

“The Traditionnelle collection embodies the full measure of Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking legitimacy”, explains the Maison’s Style and Heritage Director Christian Selmoni. “These are models steeped in history and tradition, endowed with specific stylistic codes reflecting a timeless aesthetic, regardless of the mechanical complexity involved. Through this new dial colour, Vacheron Constantin is pursuing its contemporary vision of the classic approach to design.”

38 mm of wristworn elegance

The Traditionnelle manual-winding watch is adorned with a pleasing pink gold and green colour combo, framed by a 38 mm diameter designed to suit the wrists of High Watchmaking devotees. As a loyal custodian of the 18^th century watchmaking heritage, this new Traditionnelle watch features all collection’s characteristic design codes. Its classic look is immediately recognisable by the slender, stepped case middle and the railway-type minutes track punctuating the dial, swept over by Dauphine-style hands. The contemporary twist comes in the form of a new green dial with a sunburst finish playing with light effects at every subtle flick of the wrist.

Technically speaking, horological mechanics are dedicated to aesthetics in this model. Vacheron Constantin has opted for manual-winding in-house Calibre 4400 AS endowed with a generous 65-hour power reserve to drive the hours, minutes and small seconds indications, It can be admired through the sapphire caseback and features the refined Côtes de Genève pattern representing the unmistakable signature of a High Watchmaking timepiece.

33 mm of light

The Traditionnelle manual-winding watch comes in an elegant 33 mm-diameter pink gold case. Featuring a slim stepped profile, railway-type minutes track and Dauphine-type hands, this beautifully balanced model celebrates traditional, classical watchmaking codes, yet with an exquisitely original touch. The radiance of the 54 round-cut diamonds delicately set on the bezel is matched by that of the majestic green sunburst dial. A truly luminous sight enhanced by a tone-on-tone alligator strap.

Beating behind the scenes is in-house manual-winding Calibre 1440 with its 42-hour power reserve and Côtes de Genève decorative pattern.

Interview with Christian Selmoni, Director of Style & Heritage

1/ This is of course an original colour, but what about the actual principle of the monochrome dial? Could you tell us more about its background with Vacheron Constantin?

The first watches in the Vacheron Constantin collection to feature monochrome dials date back to the early 19^th century. During this period, timepieces were richly adorned on the case side, yet more understated when it came to the dial. Despite this sobriety, the watch face was already being explored as a field on which to express new decorative techniques, such as applied numerals on a matt surface, guilloché work on the central zone, as well as textured effects. The monochrome green sunburst dial of the Traditionnelle model continues this tradition while adopting a more contemporary approach recalling the advent of ultra-thin watches in the early 20^th century. The apparent simplicity of the design is aligned with the historical perspective that is one of our Maison’s key cornerstones. This new blend of technology and aesthetics imbues these models with a clear sense of timelessness and pure classicism.

2/ Does this explain why the Traditionelle line was chosen as a field of expression, rather than the Fiftysix collection, for example, with its monochrome and sometimes two-toned dials?

The Fiftysix collection appeared in 2018, driven by a desire to provide a contemporary interpretation of a 1956 Vacheron Constantin model. Reflecting this spirit, the watch radiates a vintage look that makes it so charming, with dial colours perfectly attuned with the standards of the era: silver-toned, blue or a magnificent sepia evoking the patina of Chesterfield armchairs. The watches in the Fiftysix collection also all measure 40 mm in diameter, except for the tourbillon model, which is 41 mm. In this respect, the Traditionnelle collection is far better suited to the stylistic exercise we are offering with this new model – not only in terms of case sizes, which range from 30 mm to 42 mm, but also with regards to the dials, which Vacheron Constantin has already offered in mother-of-pearl or pastel-coloured versions for the ladies’ models. With this new sunburst green hue, we are bringing a breath of fresh air to a classic collection lending itself perfectly to these contemporary chromatic touches.

3/ Will this combination of a gold case and a gemset bezel in the Traditionnelle collection be extended to other dial colours?

Vacheron Constantin’s approach to dial colours remains essentially classic and consistently in sync with the spirit of its collections. It is however clear that in recent years, watch lovers have shown a definite inclination towards more colourful, livelier models. These two new additions to the Traditionnelle collection demonstrate that Vacheron Constantin is perfectly attuned to these trends and capable of adapting them to its own aesthetic. It is therefore highly likely that other dial colours will be added to the Vacheron Constantin chromatic range, but always in the spirit of moderation and elegance characterising Vacheron Constantin-style watchmaking.

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Sum-up

Sunny, luminous and timeless, two new manual winding Traditionnelle watches presented at Watches and Wonders Shanghai are joining Vacheron Constantin’s classic collection. Graced with a deep green sunburst dial, they encapsulate the spirit of the times at the heart of an elegant classic pink gold case recognisable by its slim stepped profile. The Traditionnelle manual-winding watch is available in two diameters designed to suit every wrist. In the 33 mm version, it flaunts its precious finery with a dainty setting of 54 diamonds adorning the bezel; while the 38 mm pink gold case encircles the wrist with a resolutely elegant touch. These two models, reserved exclusively for China for a full month, are fitted with a tone-on-tone alligator leather strap and driven by in-house manual-winding movements: Calibre 4400AS with a generous 65-hour power reserve for the 38 mm model; and Calibre 1440 with a 42-hour power reserve for the 33 mm version.

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TECHNICAL DATA

References
1405T/000R-H009

Calibre                                                       
1440 
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin 
Manual, self-winding 
22.1mm (9 1/2’’’) diameter, 2.6 mm thick 
Approximately 42 hours of power reserve 
4 Hz (28’800 vibrations per hour) 
116 components 
19 rubies 
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications                                                
Hours, minutes

Case
Pink gold 18K 5N 
33 mm diameter, 7.70 mm thick 
Bezel set with 54 round-cut diamonds 
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback 
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial 
Deep green color, sunburst finishin 
18K  5N pink gold applied hour-markers and hands

Straps                                                        
Deep green Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with calf inner shell, stitched tip, square scales

Clasp                                  
18K 5N pink gold pin buckle 
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Total diamond-setting                           
54 round-cut diamonds, for a total weight of approx. 0.87 carats (guaranteed minimum carats)

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TECHNICAL DATA

References                                                
82172/000R-H008

Calibre                                                       
4400 AS 
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin 
Mechanical, self-winding 
28.6mm (12 ½‘’’) diameter, 2.8mm thick 
Approximately 65 hours of power reserve 
4 Hz (28’800 vibrations per hour) 
127 components 
21 rubies 
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications                                                
Hours, minutes, smallseconds

Case
Pink gold 18K 5N 
38 mm diameter, 7.77 mm thick 
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback 
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)

Dial                                                             
Deep green color, sunburst finishing 
Index appliques et aiguilles en or rose 18K 5N

Straps                                                        
Deep green Mississippiensis alligator leather strap with calf inner shell, tone-on-tone, stitched tip, square scales     

Clasp                                  
18K 5N pink gold pin buckle 
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped