Patrimony self-winding jewellery : A new jewellery signature

Source:  Images and content by Vacheron Constantin

13 September 2023

• Available for the first time in a jewellery version entirely set with diamonds, the timeless elegance of the Patrimony collection appears clothed in light.
• The dial is entirely paved with diamonds using the snow-setting technique.
• An interchangeable strap adds a versatile touch.

Unveiled at Watches and Wonders Shanghai, the Patrimony self-winding jewellery watch reveals a new facet of its personality. Sparkling and dazzling, its slim 37 mm white gold silhouette is adorned with 769 round diamonds. The first jewellery watch in the Patrimony collection is dressed to the nines, while ensuring precision timing thanks to its self-winding Calibre 2460 SC/3.

We are familiar with its sense of sobriety and discretion. Now, for the first time, the Patrimony drapes itself in jewellery codes. Entirely set with diamonds, from its slender white gold case to its snow-set dial, it sparkles with every wrist movement. Luminous and radiant, the Patrimony self-winding pulls out all the stops, while remaining true to its origins. Inspired by the classic watches developed by Vacheron Constantin in the 1950s, it retains the harmonious proportions and pure lines that have characterised the collection since 2004. A timeless creation with a strong sense of showmanship, this jewellery watch’s precious finery is sure to catch the eye.

Timeless and eternal

Following in the footsteps of the self-winding Patrimony models unveiled in spring 2023 in a case with redesigned proportions and adorned with a subtly rounded crown, this new creation imbued with uncompromising refinement is distinguished by the finesse of its gem-setting. Light bounces off every facet of its elegant 37 mm case. The slender case middle is adorned with round diamonds and the lugs are also delicately gem-set, as too is the bezel forming a halo of light around the dial. In all, the Patrimony self-winding model is set with 769 diamonds, including a single rose-cut diamond resting delicately on the sensual curve of the crown.

To accentuate the dial’s glowing radiance, 420 round diamonds are set using the demanding snow-setting technique that involves a demanding technique that consists of selecting each diamond one by one, all with different diameters, to cover the metal of the dial as much as possible.  The slightly domed dial of the Patrimony self-winding presents an additional challenge, requiring the gem-setter to exercise tremendous dexterity and patience to obtain a perfectly even surface and stunning brilliance. The result, which is unique to each timepiece, causes the precious metal to vanish beneath an exceptional sparkle that varies in step with light effects and wrist movements. A dazzling sight graced with slender white gold hour-markers swept over by dainty leaf-type hands, also in white gold.

Elegant from every angle, the Patrimony self-winding is secured to the wrist with a pearlescent blue alligator leather strap. Its versatile nature means it can be paired with a wide range of styles, outfits and colours thanks to the interchangeable strap.

Essential precision

At Vacheron Constantin, aesthetic elegance and technical refinement go hand in hand. In-house Calibre 2460 SC/3 confidently marks off time thanks to its key assets of precision and reliability. Endowed with a balance oscillating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour and a power reserve of around 40 hours, this self-winding movement focuses on essentials with its hours, minutes and seconds hands. The movement’s finishing can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback, notably including a mainplate circular-grained on both sides featuring hand-chamfered bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève pattern, along with a finely hand-guilloché oscillating weight.

Interview with Christian Selmoni, Director of Style and Heritage

1/ In recent years, Vacheron Constantin has entered the field of high jewelry with its Egérie collection. So why adorn the Patrimony line with diamonds?

Until now, the Patrimony collection has only offered a delicate setting on the bezel, or even the dial, of certain 36.5mm-diameter models. However, we felt that the elegance of the collection lent itself admirably to a bolder version in terms of setting. That’s why we opted for a snow setting on the dial, which offers this singular aspect of random preciousness with a fascinating sparkle. If we look back at the history of Vacheron Constantin ladies’ watches, whose first wristwatch models date back to the late 19th century, we realize that gem-setting has been successfully adapted to all eras, particularly during the Art Deco period, without ever being confined to a specific watch range. We perpetuate this tradition because we are convinced that the work of craftsmen can sublimate any collection.

2/ Is this piece aimed at a gendered audience?

Is it still possible to talk about a gendered watch? What may seem typically feminine or masculine in some latitudes is not in others. Rather, it’s the case size that now seems to determine what’s wearable on a male or female wrist. From there, anything is possible. Now, it’s true that at Vacheron Constantin, as at most manufactures, the distinction is made between masculine and feminine watches when it comes to presenting our collections. In this sense, it’s always difficult to break away from certain traditions. But as our society evolves, I think this distinction will gradually fade.

3/ With this type of model, is Vacheron Constantin responding to demand or anticipating customer tastes and aspirations?

This is our own doing. More precisely, it emanates from our design department, which is obviously attentive to market trends. But pieces set entirely on the case and dial, or even on the bracelet, are nothing new in the watchmaking world. I’d go so far as to say they’ve been around for over a century, including at Vacheron Constantin, which produced some magnificent jewelled watches in the 1920s, for example. With this type of piece, we enter the world of the jewel-watch, where it’s usually either the watchmaking approach or the jewelry aspect that predominates. With this new piece in the Patrimony collection, I think we’ve succeeded very well in osmosing the two. This was certainly the challenge to be taken up, and one that best corresponds to current demand: to create a jewel-watch that is also a jewel-watch.

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Sum-up

Inspired by the sleek watches of the 1950s, Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony collection has been expanded for the first time to include a jewellery model. This model combines the purity of the collection’s design with the audacity of the most unforgettable piece of haute joaillerie ever created by the Maison. Luminous and radiant in all its facets, the Patrimony self-winding watch unveiled at Watches and Wonders Shanghai is adorned with 769 round diamonds delicately set on its 37 mm white gold dial and case. To accentuate the brilliance of the dial, 420 round diamonds are snow-set, a demanding and meticulous technique consists in selecting each diamond one by one, to cover the metal of the dial as much as possible. The result is a spectacular sparkle that extends to the caseback opening onto the refined finishing of in-house self-winding Calibre 2460 SC/3. The pearlescent blue alligator strap features a convenient interchangeability system further enhancing the charm of this watch and enabling an endless play on styles and colours.

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TECHNICAL DATA

References
4116U-000G-B909

Calibre                                                       
2460 SC/3 
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin 
Mechanical, self-winding 
26.2 mm (11¼’’’) diameter, 3.6 mm thick 
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve 
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) 
182 components 
27 jewels 
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepieces

Indications                                                
Hours, minutes and center seconds

Case
18K white gold case set with 331 round-cut diamonds 
37 mm diameter, 9.25 mm thick 
Crown set with 1 round-cut diamond 
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback 
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters) 

Dial 
18K white gold dial set with 420 round-cut diamonds 
Convex external zone 
18K white gold applied hour-markers and hour & minutes hands

Straps                                                        
Night blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, calf inner shell, square scales, with self-interchangeable system integrated

Buckle                                  
18K white gold ardillon buckle set with 17 round-cut diamonds

Total diamond-setting                           
769 round-cut diamonds, for a total weight of approx. 5.81 carats (guaranteed minimum carats)