Overseas perpetual calendar ultra-thin skeleton : A new openworked interpretation in pink gold framing a blue dial

Source:  Images and content by Vacheron Constantin

• An entirely skeletonised ultra-thin Manufacture movement, Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 with perpetual calendar
• An ultra-thin case measuring 8.1 mm thick
• Three tool-free interchangeable bracelet/straps

Geneva, 30 March 2022 – A new interpretation of the Overseas ultra-thin perpetual calendar model joins the collection. Both contemporary and eminently horological by nature, this gold-clad piece is magnified by a sapphire dial extending an invitation to dive into the heart of its anatomy and explore its ultra-thin entirely openworked perpetual calendar Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1.

Ultra-thin watches are part of the grand watchmaking tradition of the Maison. They have always been considered the ultimate quest in a mechanical world where extreme thinness is a symbol of style and elegance. The exceptional slenderness of the case, the meticulous attention to detail, the bold aesthetic choices – this age-old quest inherent to Vacheron Constantin reveals the anatomy of beauty characterising Vacheron Constantin watches. As early as the 1930s, the Maison distinguished itself with ultra-thin pocket watches, then in the 1950s with wristwatches that were among the thinnest of their generation. In 2016, the Overseas collection stood out by offering a new aesthetic signature and unprecedented calibres and extreme thinness was naturally part of the adventure, resulting in an ultra-thin Overseas perpetual calendar watch.

An award-winning model

This new skeletonised interpretation in 18K 5N pink gold with a blue dial expands the realm of possibilities. Acknowledged for its technical and innovative character, the model won the Calendar and Astronomy Watch prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2020. In order to keep track of the Gregorian calendar’s distinctive features, a perpetual calendar must be equipped with a mechanical memory of 1,461 days, taking the form of a cam on which, the different monthly durations are duly programmed. The mechanism can thus indicate without any need for correction months of 28, 30 and 31 days, as well as leap years. On the Overseas perpetual calendar ultra-thin model, the day and date display along the horizontal axis is complemented on the vertical axis by the month indication across four years, while the moon-phase indication is symmetrically positioned at 6 o’clock beneath an opaque glass. The next adjustment of the date will only take place in 2100, a secular year divisible by four but not by 400 and therefore not a leap year – another singularity of the Gregorian calendar.

Complexity beyond horological complication

The Manufacture self-winding Calibre 1120 has been chosen to power this complication. This extremely thin movement measuring just 2.45 mm thick is already considered a classic in the world of mechanical watches. Complemented by a perpetual calendar module to form a total thickness of 4.05 mm, it nestles at the heart of the 18K 5N pink gold case with a total 8.1 mm thickness. Greatly appreciated by collectors for its reliability and performance, Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 has been entirely skeletonised.

Skeletonisation is extremely complex to perform and is indeed a specialised field taught in watchmaking schools. The task consists in openworking a mechanical movement by hollowing out its components without compromising their reliability. This quest for transparency coupled with a high-flying precision exercise is mastered by only a few watchmakers. All parts of Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 have thus been hollowed out, finished and decorated. The technical and aesthetic attention paid to the architecture of the calibre and to the surface finishes – including those that remain hidden from sight – stems from expertise in which the smallest details compose the anatomy of beauty characterising the timepieces from the Maison.

High standards expressed through the smallest details

The movement has benefited from haute horlogerie finishing work entirely done by hand on all its components, which have been hand-drawn to create a satin-brushed appearance, chamfered to enhance the play of light and given a circular-brushed, sunburst or circular-grained decoration according to their place in the heart of the calibre. The care devoted to these finishes is accentuated by the anthracite grey tone given by NAC (N-acetylcysteine) electrolytic treatment of the mainplate, bridges and openworked oscillating weight shaped like a Maltese cross with a segment in 22K gold. Operating at a rate of 19,800 vibrations per hour (2.75 Hz) and endowed with a 40-hour power reserve, the movement can be admired through the sapphire back of the 41.5 mm diameter case. On the dial side, the thin blue calendar display rings and the same colour flange also provide a clear view of the calibre, while ensuring perfect legibility.

One timepiece, three styles

Thanks to its simple and practical interchangeable bracelet/strap system, the Overseas perpetual calendar ultra-thin skeleton watch can be adapted to any situation. It comes on an 18K 5N pink gold bracelet and is accompanied by two additional calfskin leather and rubber straps, each with an 18K 5N pink gold pin buckle.

The Anatomy of Beauty®

The Overseas perpetual calendar ultra-thin skeleton watch is entirely in tune with Vacheron Constantin’s 2022 ‘Anatomy of Beauty®’ theme, which highlights the extraordinary attention involved to details all the way to the smallest component. This extraordinarily painstaking care is expressed through the designers’ aesthetic choices and preferences as well as in the meticulous finishing work performed by the artisans. All the components of a Vacheron Constantin watch benefit from this scrupulous attention, even those that remain invisible once the movement has been assembled. A keen eye will note the fine guilloché work on a dial or the gem-set minutes track; it will make out the contours of the Maison’s Maltese cross emblem on the links of a bracelet; it will notice the small flame-blued screw serving as a seconds indicator on a tourbillon carriage and the mirror polish of a minute-repeater hammer; it will appreciate the artisans’ delicate touch when chamfering a plate or rounding off a bridge; and finally, it will admire the miniature enamel painting depicting a ship tossed around by a stormy sea streaked with lightning. At Vacheron Constantin, concern for detail delicately shapes an anatomy of beauty in which nothing is left to chance.

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Sum-up

Vacheron Constantin is offering a new interpretation of its Overseas perpetual calendar ultra-thin skeleton model in 18K 5N pink gold with a blue dial. The watch, which won a prize in the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, is equipped with Manufacture Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 measuring just 4.05 mm thick. The hand-finished skeletonised movement, a favourite with collectors, is highlighted by the grey tone of the NAC treatment given to the mainplate, bridges and oscillating weight. The technical nature of the perpetual calendar, which keeps track of the Gregorian calendar’s vagaries without any need for adjustments, can be admired from both sides of the case which is barely 8.1 mm thick. Complete with its interchangeable bracelet/strap system, this timepiece reflects the grand tradition of Vacheron Constantin’s ultra-thin watches imbued with the modern, contemporary spirit characterising the Overseas collection.

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TECHNICAL DATA

Reference                                            
4300V/120R-B642

Calibre                                                   

1120 QPSQ/1
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
Openworked oscillating weight inspired by the shape of a Maltese cross with a segment in 22K gold        
NAC treatment
29.6 mm (12½’’’) diameter, 4.05 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations per hour)
276 components
36 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications                                           
Hours and minutes
Perpetual calendar (date, day of the week, month, leap year)
Moon phases                                                          

Case                                                        
18K 5N pink gold
41.5 mm diameter, 8.1 mm thick
Soft iron casing ring ensuring anti-magnetic protection
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 5 bar (approx. 50 metres)

Dial                                                           
Sapphire
18K 5N pink gold hour-markers and hours & minutes hands highlighted with Super-LumiNova®

Bracelet                                                  
18K 5N pink gold bracelet (half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links), secured by a 18K 5N pink gold triple-blade folding clasp with push-pieces and comfort-adjustment system

Additional straps                               
Blue calf leather strap with white stitches
Blue rubber

Buckles                                                     
Each additional strap comes with a 18K 5N pink gold buckle

Model exclusively available from Vacheron Constantin boutiques.