At the dawn of the 19th century, the Bovet brothers revolutionized the applied arts of watchmaking, raising them to a degree of excellence that remains unequaled, as evidenced by the omnipresence of BOVET timepieces in the most prestigious academic art museums in the world.
When he became the sole owner of the Maison BOVET 1822 in 2001, Mr. Raffy immediately sought to safeguard the decorative arts techniques that were so integral to the soul of the Maison. At a time when the trending fashion was for futurism, he developed and ensured the longevity of professions that had all but disappeared, such as artistic engraving, miniature painting, and the art of enameling. Unique pieces and customized timepieces today represent one third of the timepieces manufactured annually by BOVET 1822 and bear witness to collectors’ attachment to artistic craftsmanship.
Since then, BOVET 1822 has presented an annual-selection of unique pieces adorned with miniature painting or grand feu enameling. This year, the artisans have reinterpreted an array of collectors’ most beloved themes with a new inspiration.
This 2019 vintage gives pride of place to timepieces designed for women.
Two of them take the fan as their theme. This choice is particularly appealing because of its universal nature. Fans have existed since antiquity on all continents and in many different cultures. Only very few objects have managed to survive the centuries unaffected by fashions and cultural change. But fans and timepieces share more than just this permanence. Each timepiece combines a host of materials, and several different artisanal professions often contribute to their manufacture.
One of the timepieces represents a painted silk fan, while the second, more exuberant model is made up of elegant, voluminous feathers. This theme lends itself particularly well to the miniature painting technique practiced by BOVET 1822 artisans as it uses mother-of-pearl as a backdrop. This provides a singularly elegant contrast with the details of the miniature painting.
Dozens of hours of work are required to render the fans in all their detail, from their volume to their materials, with the painter recreating every single detail of the silk-like fibers or feathers with astounding realism. To achieve such a level of definition, the painter uses a brush ending in a single marten hair, and produces the work entirely under a microscope.
Using this same technique, BOVET artisans also presents a dial illustrating koi carp. This is a theme dear to collectors from Southeast Asia, where koi carp is symbolize of love.
Mr. Raffy asked Ilgiz Fazulzyanov to interpret this same koi carp theme. The Russian enamel artist and jeweler has been creating the House’s grand feu enamel dials since becoming a BOVET 1822 partner in 2014. In this instance, two carps occupy the dial, undulating among a lake scene in relief accented with diamonds, whose radiance reproduces the shimmering reflections on the lake surface. A highly detailed timepiece of this kind requires several hundred hours’ work, the complexity of which is exacerbated by the mix of techniques used.
Each of these dials fits within the patented 39 mm-diameter Fleurier Amadeo case set with round diamonds, allowing the wearer to convert the timepiece into a bracelet watch, table watch, or pendant without requiring the use of a single tool.
In 2017, BOVET 1822 revealed an exclusive miniature painting technique in which the artisan incorporates layers of luminescent material into their composition. At night, the painting lights up and reveals its most intricate details in striking contrasts. A theme dear to female collectors the world over, an orange butterfly unfolds its wings on the ultrawhite mother-of-pearl dial surface of this 40 mm Château de Môtiers timepiece. In darkness the butterfly’s gossamer wings appear backlit in luminous, three-dimensional splendor, outlined with realistic depth and accomplished with enchanting, artistic poetry.
Three men’s timepieces complete the 2019 BOVET 1822 Decorative Arts Collection. Two of them represent Chinese dragons, a theme which has been found in BOVET collections since 1822. The Emperor of China himself was a keen collector of dragon timepieces, a tribute to this theme’s success and credibility worldwide.
A golden dragon on a field of blue in the decorative dial of the convertible 43 mm-diameter Amadéo case in red gold. Meanwhile a second version features a brightly colored dragon rendered boldly against a dark mother-of-pearl dial.
The final timepiece in this Decorative Arts Collection features a white tiger. Of all the animals, it is one of the most difficult to reproduce in the small-scale dimensions of a timepiece dial. Each hair of the tiger’s thick fur has been individually painted by the artisan, who uses a microscope to precisely guide their brush’s single marten hair. This extreme miniaturization requires the greatest precision over man weeks and months, for a single painting.
Mr. Raffy and Maison BOVET’ 1822’s artists and artisans are proud to have combined their talents and virtuosity to manufacture a collection whose artistic poetry and excellence pay tribute to collectors the world over. It is the loyalty of these collectors that helps ensure the longevity of the traditional arts and crafts professions, whose skills and expertise are the pillars that support and perpetuate BOVET 1822’S passion for the finest watchmaking.
AMADÉO FLEURIER 39
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Ref: AF39802-SD123, 18K white gold, motif « koï »
AF39803-SD1, 18K red gold, motif « fan »
AF39570-SD1, 18K red gold, motif « fan »
CASE
Type: Amadéo® convertible system
Diameter: 39 mm
Material: 18K red or white gold
Setting: Ref. AF39802-SD1: bow, bezel and lugs set with 227 round-cut diamonds (~1.26ct). Crown and strap-bolt set with 5 briolette diamonds
Ref. AF39803-SD1 and AF39570-SD1: bezel set with 46 round-cut diamonds (~1.84ct). Crown and strap-bolt set with 5 cabochons
Bracelet: Full skin alligator
Buckle: 18K red or white gold ardillon
Chain: Gold-plated or rhodium-plated silver
Water resistance: 30m
MOVEMENT
Caliber: 11BA13
Type: Self-winding mechanical
Diameter: 11 ½ ’’’
Frequency: 28,000 V/h
Power reserve: 72 hours
Functions: Hours and minutes
PATENT
Amadeo® convertible case
DIAL
Mother-of-pearl dial with a miniature painting
AMADÉO FLEURIER 43
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Ref: AF43601, 18K red gold, motif « goldened dragon »
AF43604, 18K red gold, motif « red dragon »
AF43602, 18K white gold, motif « white tiger »
CASE
Type: Amadéo® convertible system
Diameter: 43 mm
Material: 18K red or white gold
Bracelet: Full skin alligator
Buckle: 18K red or white gold ardillon
Chain: Gold-plated or rhodium-plated silver
Water resistance: 30m
MOVEMENT
Caliber: 11BA12
Type: Self-winding mechanical
Diameter: 11 ½ ’’’
Frequency: 28,000 V/h
Power reserve: 72 hours
Functions: Hours and minutes
DIAL
Mother-of-pearl dial with a miniature painting
PATENT
Amadeo® convertible case
