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The perpetual calendar is a fine example of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of astronomical complications, as it takes into account the differences between the cycles of the heavenly bodies and the units of standard civil timekeeping. Consequently, the calendar needs manual adjustment only in centennial years that are not also leap years. The first time that this will be required is the year 2100. The operation of the perpetual calendar of Calibre 184 is both innovative and highly intuitive, allowing the date to be re-set either backwards or forwards.
The layout of the calendar indications is equally intuitive. Set into the hours and minutes dial, three small windows display the year, month, and day, while the date is shown on a ring surrounding the sub-dial. The spaces between dates are perfectly uniform, except for 16 and 17, which are separated by 60 degrees. Every month, the date indicator hand leaps from one to the other, ensuring that the Gyrotourbillon isn’t obscured.
Viewed through the sapphire case-back, the reverse side of the movement is no less compelling. The plates have been open-worked to allow a view deep into the calibre, including a full view of the Gyrotourbillon, as well as the governor for the minute repeater, which uses friction and centripetal force to regulate the speed at which the time is chimed and reduces the silent intervals between chimes.
In keeping with the elevated level of the mechanics and the exceptional artistic craftsmanship of this timepiece, the movement features superlative hand-finishing. The bridges are hand-bevelled; sunrayed Côtes de Genève radiate out from the perpetual calendar’s anchor-point; and heat-blued screws are set into hand-bevelled and polished sinks. Several bridges are micro-blasted, to create a pleasing textural contrast with the movement’s polished elements.
Uniting three great watchmaking complications with an exceptional degree of craftsmanship and artistry, the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 is eloquent testimony to the 180 skills housed within the Manufacture and reconfirms the place that Jaeger-LeCoultre holds in the world of haute horlogerie as the ‘Watchmaker of Watchmakers’™.
