Source: Images and content by REVEALING THE NEW 101 SECRETS TIMEPIECE @ Jaeger LeCoultre.
A marriage of rare crafts and high technology
The development of the 101 Secrets watch required hundreds of hours of research and 15 different areas of expertise, combining traditional techniques and new technologies, to perfect the design of the case, the opening and closing mechanisms, the precisely articulated bracelet and the positioning of the gemstones.
With the implementation of microtechnology, specialists in CAD and 3D printing developed prototypes following discussions with designers, watchmakers and specialised craftsmen – essential steps to ensure the precision of all components before proceeding to final production.
Designing the secret elements of the watch added to the challenge. The secret mechanism that reveals the dial had to be so tiny that it could be completely hidden within the rows of diamonds – its position known only to the wearer and activated by a diamond ‘button’. When the diamond is held down, a small section of the bracelet pops open like the pages of a book, to reveal the time. Once the button is released, the dial disappears again into the flow of diamonds. A tiny, hidden mechanism also had to be developed for the clasp that fastens the bracelet to the wrist.
The manually-wound movement, Calibre 101, is also a remarkable feat of miniaturisation and precision. With 98 components, the entire movement measures just 14 mm x 4.8 mm with a thickness of 3.4 mm and weighs just one gram. Despite its minuscule size, it provides a power reserve of 33 hours. It requires 40 hours to hand-assemble the miniature movement, a specialised skill that very few watchmakers have mastered.