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A Refined Dial Reinterprets the Duometre’s Aesthetic Codes
The Duometre collection has always been distinguished by the powerful symmetry of the dial layout. On the dial of the Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual, the triangular arrangement that directly expresses the underlying mechanism with its two barrels and gear trains has been turned 90 degrees, as if the winding crown forms the apex of the triangle, the time display is flanked by the two power reserves, and the ‘base’ of the triangle is formed by the moon-phase indicator and days on one side and the months and years on the other.
On the vertical axis, the two sides of the dial are separated by a gold bridge with contrasting areas of microblasting and bevelling, creating an intriguing play of light – and echoing the finishes on the watch case. The left-hand side of the dial is open-worked to provide a fascinating view of the tourbillon performing its ‘spinning top’ rotation – a kinematic effect created by the combination of the three cages rotating on different axes and at different speeds. A sapphire crystal window in the side of the case offers another way to view this captivating mechanical show.
The tourbillon is set above a background of deep blue lacquer representing a starry sky and, as it spins, red triangles set on the third cage indicate 20-second intervals marked on a sapphire crystal arc that floats above the starry blue background. On the main dial refined finishes abound, with applied hour indexes and frames around the date and year, and a mix of opaline, brushed and azuré surfaces creating subtle contrasts between the different indications.
Epitomising the noble art of watchmaking tradition, this fine decoration is carried over to the movement, even on components that are not visible through the sapphire crystal caseback: brushed surfaces contrast with perlage, edges are hand-bevelled and polished, and sunrayed Geneva stripes (côtes de Genève soleillées) radiate seamlessly across the entire expanse of the bridges. Like all Jaeger-LeCoultre movements, Calibre 388 was conceived, designed, produced, assembled and finished within the Manufacture.
